Satisfied customers carry away a plant strewn with flowers from the store. Then for several weeks admire the abundant flowering. After a period of rest comes, and flower growers are looking forward to its end. But the wait sometimes drags on for months. Let’s figure out why the orchid does not bloom and what to do so that its flowering is plentiful and regular.

What to do to bloom an orchid

Possible reasons for the lack of flowering
— The plant is too young
— Improper watering
— The flower is sick
– Wrong soil composition
— Temperature too low
— Little light
Flowering stimulation
— Simulation of the rainy season
Or drought
— Warm shower
— Temperature fluctuations
– Use of succinic acid
— Or cytokinin paste

Reasons for the lack of flowering

Epiphytes bloom beautifully 2-3 times a year. Moreover, each period of their flowering can last up to four months. The absence of flowers is a signal that the plant has problems. The reasons may be different. We list the most common.

1. Too young plant

For the first time, orchids bloom at the age of one and a half to three years. This should be known to those who grow a flower from a baby. The absence of peduncles at this age is the absolute norm. You have to be patient and wait. True, there are plants that produce flower-bearing arrows even in the phase of an unseparated baby or immediately after transplantation. Such peduncles must be removed, their further development will destroy the young flower.

2. Watering errors

Proper watering is necessary for the normal development of epiphytes. Waterlogging and overdrying of the roots are dangerous for them. The best option is watering “on demand” rather than on a schedule. If the surface of the roots has acquired a gray-silver tint, and the substrate is completely dry, it’s time to water. It is best to do this in a submersible way: the pot is placed in a basin of water for an hour and a half, immersed in a liquid by a third.

3. Pests and diseases

If the Phalaenopsis is struggling to survive, it will not bloom. The initial signs of diseases, with the exception of those caused by viruses, are clearly visible. Making a diagnosis is easy. The appearance of pests is also hard to miss. Therefore, do not neglect regular examination, when the first alarming symptoms appear, it is necessary to start treatment. It is even better to carry out preventive maintenance periodically.

4. Wrong substrate composition

Mistakes in the choice of soil lead to waterlogging of the root system, its decay and death. The composition of the «correct» substrate includes bark, sand, coconut fiber and peat. Epiphytes are categorically not suitable for any flower soil mixture and soils with sphagnum. Only a special mixture is used.

5. Cold and excess moisture

Phalaenopsis vegetate year-round, they do not require a decrease in temperature for a dormant period. The optimum temperature for them is 20-30°C. Differences between night and day temperatures by 5-7°C are desirable. Humidity is best kept at 70-80%. A value of 40% is considered critical for an orchid.

6. Lack of lighting

For the development and growth of the flower does not need a lot of light, but the flower buds awaken only with sufficient light. Phalaenopsis needs 10 hours of daylight. Therefore, in winter, especially after the appearance of the peduncle, the plant must be illuminated with a fitolamp. The light source is placed above the pot, but so that the leaves do not warm up. In summer, epiphytes are shaded so that direct sunlight does not burn out. The roots also need light, so it is advisable to select transparent pots for planting.


What to do if the orchid does not bloom

If conditions close to ideal are created for the plant, but it still does not want to bloom, they give additional stimulation. For this, physical and chemical methods are used. You can’t combine them, it will become too much stress for the flower. For influence choose any one method. Let’s figure out how to make an orchid bloom at home.

Let’s start with physical methods. The homeland of epiphytes is the tropics, where there is no summer or winter. But there is a division into wet and dry seasons. This is a natural cycle that affects flowering. Imitation of its phases at home helps the plant bloom. Important note: manipulations can only be carried out with a healthy flower. If there are signs of trouble, it is better not to do this.

1. Simulation of the rainy season

Start by reducing the amount of nitrogen in regular top dressing. It activates the growth of the root system and leaves, which is not needed yet. Instead, increase the dose of phosphorus and potassium. It will be optimal to use the following proportions of fertilizers: nitrogen — 2 parts, potassium and phosphorus 6 parts each. The orchid is abundantly watered with warm water for 3-5 days in a row. Can be watered with a shower. Then the flower is not watered for two weeks. This is necessary so that the substrate and roots dry well. After that, they return to the usual watering regimen.

2. Dry season simulation

Constant watering stimulates leaf growth and nitrogen accumulation. A brief «drought» will change that. Top dressing and spraying are temporarily stopped, the watering interval is doubled. At the same time, make sure that the roots do not dry out. In this mode, the orchid lives for a month and a half, then they return to the usual watering schedule. If the peduncle appears earlier, normal watering, spraying and fertilizing should be resumed immediately.


3. Warm shower

This is a rather dangerous way, the risk of harming the plant is very high. It is necessary to accurately withstand the temperature of the water. It should not be hotter than 40°C, preferably three to five degrees lower. The orchid is watered in the usual way, after half an hour they are transferred to the bath and a warm shower is opened. He should water the whole flower well. The duration of the procedure is 30-40 seconds. After a shower, the epiphyte is left in the bath to cool down. Then they are transferred to the place. Within two weeks after that, it is not watered or fed. The procedure is «shown» not to all varieties. For example, a slipper, cumbria or miltonia will not tolerate it..

4. Daily temperature fluctuations

Phalaenopsis is transferred to a cooler place for the night. It can be a balcony or a loggia, a basement, a cellar. You can simply set the window to micro-ventilation mode at night, but so that a trickle of cold air does not fall on the leaves. The optimal difference between night and day temperatures is 6-7°C.


For chemical stimulation two drugs are widely used.

5. Stimulation with succinic acid

The drug activates the development and growth, strengthens the immune system, stimulates flowering and increases its duration. Sold in the form of tablets, from which a means for spraying or soaking is prepared. The proportions are indicated on the packaging of the drug. Succinic acid is included in the regular care of phalaenopsis. Flowers especially need it after transplantation and a prolonged dormant period. Before use, you must read the instructions.

6. Use of cytokinin paste

A drug based on the phytohormone cytokinin. It activates dormant cells, stimulates their growth and reproduction, has a positive effect on the formation and development of flower stalks, increases their flowering period, and contributes to the rapid recovery of weakened specimens.

To get a new peduncle, they are treated with cytokinin paste. They do it like this. Find a dormant flower bud. Very carefully trim the covering scale and remove it. An unformed kidney opens. It is abundantly lubricated with cytokinin paste, after a short time the kidney will begin to grow.


We found out why the orchid does not bloom and what to do to make it bloom. After the plant has faded, do not immediately cut off the peduncle. If its tip is green, there is a possibility of continued growth and the appearance of new buds. Dried peduncle must be removed. Leave only a small «stump» with one or more kidneys.